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Cape Town Cuisines

Submitted by admin on Thu, 08/19/2010 - 11:00.

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By: Mark Friedman

I had the good fortune of going to South Africa this summer and discovered an incredible eating and drinking scene that must be shared. I am clearly not the first to fall in love with Cape Town and the winelands surrounding one of South Africa's oldest cities, but I feel it necessary to write about the experience in detail for you to enjoy.

I must begin by explaining why I made the 18-hour plane journey to South Africa and then why I made the additional flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town. The World Cup. Simple as that...soccer/football is not exactly a passion for most Americans but it captured me early in life and I have remained a die-hard fan of the “beautiful game”. So, lucky for me I got the opportunity to visit an amazing country and attend some World Cup games all at the same time...better yet my supportive (yet non-soccer loving) wife decided to join me. That is where this turns from soccer to fine cuisine and wine. With the wife on board I knew this would not be a trip for soccer addicts, but rather a mix of soccer vacation.

(Cape of Good Hope)

This brings us to Cape Town in between the USA's first and second games (both in the Johannesburg area, a 2 hour flight from Cape Town). Our 5 days in Cape Town was all about fun, food and wine and this fine city did not disappoint. Cape Town is a wonderful, vibrant place with water on one side, mountains on the other and fertile valley's all around. Any visit to the area must include a day trip south to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. A necessary and touristy thing to do, but one touristy thing I actually enjoyed (as opposed to Times Square on New Years or the National Mall on July 4!).

Rent a car, figure out how to drive on the other side of the road and head south for an hour...being sure to stop along the way for food, drinks, shopping and the cute little penguins in the sleepy surfing village of Simon's Town. The Cape of Good Hope is not really an important geographical landmark..after all, what does the South-West most point of the African continent really mean? Its not the most southern or western point, but whatever, the area is breathtaking. The ride back is stunning, on a cliff-hugging highway, rivaling California's Route 1 for sheer beauty and potential terror.

Although the city is full of cuisine and bars of all kinds, the real gems are outside of the city in the wine regions. First off, La Colombe in Constantia. Rated as one of the best restaurants in the world, La Colombe sits just 20 minutes from downtown on a cozy winery. A mix of French classic cuisine and modern influences, the menu is diverse and creative. Ordering al la carte' is possible but I would recommend the tasting menu. It changes often, but I cannot imagine it would ever disappoint. The menu generally includes some seafood, poultry and the South African staple, Springbok. When cooked perfectly, as La Colombe does, this is a delicious piece of meat, tender and juicy with almost no fat.

The springbok is in the antelope family and can be found all over the country. The beloved animal is even the nickname for the country's rugby team. I found this dish served at a number of restaurants, but never as supple and flavorful as here...just think about one of the best cuts of filet mignon you have ever tasted...then add some great wine! The wine list here (and at most places in the winelands) is truly incredible, tapping into the best that South Africa has to offer. I will cover wine in further detail a bit later. Finishing up the meal, a suckling pig is often on the menu which, as one would imagine, was crisp and tasty, cooked just right. Finish up with an array of small chocolate deserts and the dinner, the 5-course or 7-course is completely filling and satisfying. In addition to the food, the restaurant décor and surroundings just scream romance. This is a continuing theme for restaurants situated on a gorgeous winery, but La Colombe is a great example. The dinning room is not too large, 15-20 tables with a large fireplace for the colder nights and sliding glass doors that look out onto the garden area.

Further away from the city in the real South African wine hotbed, Stellenbosch, sits another gem, Rust En Vrede. Housed in a gorgeous Cape Dutch-style building, the restaurant sits deep inside the winery, down a long tree lined dirt road. It is not a very large space, carved out of an old wine storage house, the restaurant has 10-15 tables and an elegant bar and wine cellar. The menu is a winner, with a nice variety on the tasting menu and two options, 6-course or 4. I actually prefer the 4-course which is just as good, but allows more choices per course. Foie Gras, Quail, Kingklip (a popular South African fish), Lamb and of course Springbok. The selections are rich, perfectly prepared and a very good size. This is no high cost, high cuisine, small plates kind of place...the meal is world class and the portions are just right. Every detail, from the handmade cookery and stemware to the beautifully refreshed brick walls add to the ambiance. The wine selection does not hurt either. As with every restaurant in the area, wine is the name of the game. Luckily partnerships and deals with all of the local producers creates a powerful and varied list at very reasonable prices. The entire staff has clearly been trained well by Sommelier Neil Grant, who was also very attentive to our wine and food selections. Grant, who spent years on the California wine scene brings a wealth of knowledge and more importantly charm to the dining experience.

Go with the suggested wine pairings for each course or grab one bottle that you love, truly one cannot go wrong, there is not a bad bottle in the house. I am not sure if the wine complements the food or the other way around, but the taste is all South Africa. The Kingklip is somewhat unfamiliar to American restaurants, poached and pan roasted, it is very tasty, not too dry. Go with the Quail as well, crispy, juicy skin and meat, cooked the way any well trained French chef would do it. A loin of lamb or Springbok are other options for the final course and the sucker I am, I opted for the Springbok. I knew it would be tough to challenge South African antelope from La Colmbe but Rust En Vrede certainly gives them a run for their money. Again, tender and pink, cooked medium rare, the Springbok is a great piece of meat, not so filling and large to leave you bloated and stuffed. It goes well with the local Pinotage, with Glazed Turnips and Croquette Potatoes on the side. The meal of course wraps up with a delightful selection of chocolates and desert.

The beauty of the area and the local restauranteurs is that there are a number of new places popping up, they are all pushing each other to be better and right now all of these meals can be had for a relative bargain for the visitor coming from the United States. Its hard to say that someone should travel 18 hours simply to visit Cape Town and the surrounding winelands, generally a safari or other African adventure would have to be included, but, visiting this part of the world and not taking a couple of days to sip the wine, taste the food and see the beauty of the area would be a huge mistake.

For more info on La Colombe and Rust En Vrede check out the San Pellegrino list of the top 50 restaurants here www.theworlds50best.com La Colombe is currently ranked #12 in the world and Rust En Vrede is on the next page, currently listed as the 74th best restaurant in the world.

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